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2007 German Vintage Notes

Carl

Carl Von Schubert - 2007 German Vintage tasting notes

2007 was characterized by a long growing season. Already in the first week of April, the very first grape leaves began to unfold and the summer-like warmth and dryness subsequently lead to very early budding by the third week of May as if in one fell swoop without compromising quality. For the next several months, we enjoyed the premature development. In July, August and part of September the maturation process slowed down considerably due to cooler weather; so much so that by the time the harvest began on October 8th, the maturation levels were back to those of a more "normal year". In the course of intensive pruning, particularly in the removal of leaves near the grapes for better air and sun exposure, we had far healthier fruit and less Botrytis. After the two previous years, with average yields of about 30 hectolitres per hectar, in 2007 we could achieve a normal yield of 58 hectolitres per hectar. In the course of the almost three week harvest, the extraordinarily healthy grapes were harvested in almost totally dry weather conditions with ideal acidity levels. The main harvest ended on the 26th of October and early in the morning of November 16th the last grapes were harvested in frosty weather. After a natural clarification through sedimentation, the must was spontaneously fermented with natural yeasts. The young wines will remain on the fine yeast until shortly before bottling. The 2007s taste very well balanced and have a wonderful minerality, fine structure and already show great depth. Delicate, fruity and exotic aromas characterize this exceptional year which had a very long and gradual growth period. In 2007 Maximin Grunhauser Rieslings exhibit a predominant force and power but also a lingering, subtle aftertaste of elegance and finesse. After the outstanding years of 2005 and 2006, it is becoming, once again, clear that global warming is advantageous to our region. Chemical additives can, therefore, be omitted which eliminates the increase of alcohol and the fruit acidity remains at a very good, racy level. One can further say that these Rieslings are certainly light, elegant and very expressive.

Robert Weil - 2007 German Vintage tasting notes, Rheingau

The phenomena of climate change and resultant global warming also affected the year 2007. Once again, weather observations yielded record-breaking data: after a winter that was clearly too mild, spring weather in April and May was extremely warm. Furthermore, even though the summer often did not feel very “summery,” temperatures registered during the growing season were the highest since recordkeeping began (1884), even breaking the record set in 2003. Naturally, these climatic conditions had a considerable affect on the vines. A very warm April led to an extremely early bud burst. Warm temperatures continued in May, so that vines blossomed during the second half of the month – the earliest blossoming since time immemorial. The warmth lasted through early June and by mid-June, vegetation was more than three weeks ahead of schedule. Rather average weather during the rest of summer reduced this head start. Nevertheless, the grapes began to ripen in the Rheingau on 3 August – precisely as early as in the “record year” 2003. The difference was that the development of the grapes (after early blossoming) continued more slowly and consistently, thanks to a better distribution of sunshine and rainfall than in 2003. Because of this perfect weather pattern, vines had optimal supplies of water and nutrients, and despite the relatively early harvest (due to early blossoming), Riesling grapes could remain on the vines for a long time – an important factor for this grape variety. Even the grapes harvested the earliest had exceptionally high extract values (even higher than in 2005 and 2006) and showed a perfect physiological ripeness and well-developed aromas. As such, the early harvest yielded fine Kabinett and light Spätlese qualities that will be bottled as Qualitätswein (Gutsriesling). In all, ideal weather conditions enabled us to leisurely extend the harvest over seven weeks and selectively harvest the best grapes for other Prädikat wines. For the 19th consecutive year we were able to harvest every Prädikat, including Trockenbeerenauslese with up to 256 degrees Oechsle, in our Grand Cru sites Kiedricher Gräfenberg and Kiedricher Turmberg. In addition to the exceptionally high quality of the 2007 vintage, the wonderful climatic conditions during the year provided us with a higher yield. After five short years, this brings us back to our long-term average. It still seems that the Rheingau will be one of the regions to benefit from increasingly warmer weather. In the future, despite higher temperatures, it will still be possible to produce wines with an ideal Riesling profile – finesse, mineral character, and fine acidity – particularly in the stony soils in the higher sites in the foothills of the Taunus Hills. In addition to these natural advantages of terroir, with God’s blessing we were able to harvest our grapes over a long period of time, after a picture-perfect growing season in 2007.

Schloss Shönborn- Peter Barth

Almost perfect! Looking back at the growing season we had, after a warm winter, a bud break which was about three weeks earlier compared to a normal year. We even were ahead of 2003. Throughout summer we always had enough water and temperatures which were a bit above normal, but not much. The ripening of the grapes started in early August, we were still pretty early, and we had what is quiet unusual: Water enough in August!  When we came into early September everybody was talking about starting picking grapes the earliest date ever, but then we were lucky again, we got cool nights and the ripening slowed down what was perfect to give us aromatic fruit.  October was a textbook month for picking grapes: Cool, dry, lot of sun! We call this ‘Golden October’. You have to wait till you can taste the wines before you know what we mean. We started picking Riesling grapes late September and weather was friendly to us and the grapes for the next five weeks. We just had one day with rain. We could harvest all we needed and wanted: A good quantity, not too much to lose quality. We could make all kind of selections with the result that we got Trockenbeerenauslese from the Erbacher Marcobrunn with 292 °Oe, the highest sugar level ever harvested at Schloss Schönborn and you know that we are in business for a couple of years. Why we`re in the lucky position, that we can follow the fermentation of the wine, we only can tell you that we`re excited what we got in the cellar and promise you will be too when you’ll taste the vintage 2007.

A Word From the Owner of Dee Vine Wines Germany 2007 truly divine! A vintage for the ages!

My first experience with young German Rieslings came with the 1971 vintage in the Spring of 1974 just after I'd gotten my first job in the wine trade. Everyone was ecstatic about the wines and I had no clue why. They sure tasted good to me but I had no other reference by which to judge them. Once I figured out what "Botrytis" was and what effect it had on the flavor profile of the wines, I was able to fully appreciate the magnificent sensations that were my "Riesling Baptism". I recall very vividly a glass of Piesporter Goldtroepfchen Spätlese from the great von Kesselstatt estate on the Mosel. It smelled exactly like apple blossoms and honey. Wow!!! This was a revelation to me and I've never forgotten it. A bit like your first lover. Even then I thought all the hoopla over the 1971 vintage was probably exaggerated to a certain extent; particularly in light of the fact that at the time outstanding German vintages were relatively rare and we still had plenty of it to sell. Two or three good harvests per decade was, indeed, uncommon; the opposite of today. It was only after some years of tasting previous and subsequent vintages that I realized just how special 1971 was. In fact, it still is and the primary reason for this is that the wines have marvelous balance and structure. The 2001 harvest was widely compared to 1971 and I realized that the "fair weather" critics that gave it such praise, for the most part, had not tasted the young 1971s or they would never have so closely compared the two. Not that 2001 was by any means inferior or mediocre. It was just very different and not as good. The Mosels were the best but the quality varied greatly from there. However, the 2007s have a universal balance, structure and charm that I've not seen since 1971, with the closest year in the new "global warming" age being 1997. In fact, numerous producers compared their 2007s to both of these memorable vintages but added that these wines, indeed, had their own unique identity just as no two children are ever same. The most striking aspect to me is the consistency from region to region which makes it more like 1971 than 1997. Who's complaining? The other most striking feature is, that after a decade or more of declassifying Auslese to Spätlese and Spätlese to Kabinett, true, absolutely typical Kabinett and Spätlese wines were produced everywhere we went and with great acidity/sugar balance and structure that guarantee both early drinkability and long term aging potential. The wine collectors dream! Many already exhibit wonderful layered complexity that is rare in such youthful wines. Botrytis is evident in some Spätlesen and nearly all the superb Auslesen we encountered and, of course, as in any truly remarkable German vintage, there are stunning late harvest Beeren and Trockenbeerenauslesen that are astoundingly concentrated and harmonious. Although some estates went ahead and produced Eiswein, it is not a classic year for these wines as it wasn't cold enough early enough so the resulting wines tend to lack true Eiswein structure and acidity; making them more like high-acid Beerenauslesen. I cannot assure anyone that the 2007s will taste like 1971s now or even in a decade or so but I can tell you this for sure: 1971 was one of the top ten vintages of the 20th century and 2007 is thus far the greatest vintage of the 21st century.

Ausgezeichnet! -Dade

Jose Moura- Purchasing and Importation Manager

The 2007 vintage German Riesling has been steadily arriving in our warehouse to the delight of the many devotees of Dee Vine Wines. Unlike every other vintage I’ve participated in introducing to our customers the 2007 offers the most immediate satisfaction. That is, I’ve found that I especially enjoy drinking new Riesling after six to nine months after they arrive. As early as March, 2008, the 2007s were precocious and near perfect in their balance having benefited from the longest growing season in memory for many. Wherever we visited in Germany Riesling ruled in 2007!

After the relatively low supply of wine and high incidence of botrytis in 2006, the return to a more refreshing style of Kabinett and Spätlesen is welcome. These wines are lusciously ripe and are laced by the necessary acidity to counter the ample residual sugars. They finish with the same roundness of sweet fruit on the palate and a fresh aftertaste that makes them an effortless pleasure to drink.

While quality and supply are excellent across the board among our suppliers, the vintage also produced the most distinction by producer and site I’ve encountered. So, while we can generally evaluate the overall quality of a vineyard or sub- region in most years, in 2007 the differences among the various producers and even their specific selections are wonderfully delineated, and significant. The wines from 2007 are precise and unique from each other, offering a great opportunity to investigate the subtle nuances of their site, and the particular style or taste of the winemaker.

Cheers,

Joe Moura

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