Established in 1998, Dee Vine Wines is a small, if you will, “boutique” wine shop that specializes in imported wines from Germany, France, Spain.
One of the most notorious food and wine “problem” areas involves the use of artichokes. This yummy vegetable contains cynarin, a type of organic acid that produces an undesired sweet taste in wines that do not normally possess a sweet component. I’ve worked in several restaurants where the sommelier’s attitude toward artichoke-laden dishes on the menu ranged somewhere between horror, panic and disdain. Frankly, a dish with concentration of this vegetable puts a sommelier in a bad position; there are just not enough successful matches in the wine world.
Fortunately, extremely dry, acidic white wines are not affected so adversely in pairings with artichoke “smothered” preparations. In fact, a suppressed or hidden fruit quality in the wine may be enhanced, actually improving the overall structure. We at Dee Vine Wines have the perfect wine for all of your artichoke dishes, and I invite you to try this delicious recipe and see for yourself.
The wine: 1999 Müller Catoir Hambacher Römerbrunnen Weisburgunder Kabinett trocken (Pinot Blanc) $15
Pan roast chicken breast with andouille sausage, artichokes and Weissburgunder. Serves 4
4 Chicken “airline” Breast (ask your butcher; it’s a bone-in skin-on breast with the winglet attached) approx 12 oz. each
3/4 TB flour
Kosher salt, black pepper
1/2 TB Pure Olive Oil
6 oz. Andouille sausage sliced in coins.
2 med. Yellow Onion, peeled, split and sliced 1/4 inch thick.
4 Globe Artichokes
1/3 cup Weissburgunder
1 TB Dry whole leaf Oregano
1/2 cup Chicken Stock (optional)
2-3 Green Onions (scallions)
1. Preheat oven to 350 F. Season chicken breasts with salt and freshly ground black pepper and dust all over with flour.
2. Clean artichokes as follows: cut off top 2/3 of the artichoke, cut off most of bottom stem. Peel back, “pop off” outside leaves until you reach only yellow leaves, and trim all around base and leaves to remove all green,using a paring knife. Cut artichoke in half, quickly spoon out “choke” and cut 1/4 inch thick wedges from halves. Plunge the wedges into a bowl of cold water with a squeeze of lemon juice.
3. In large (12 in.) heavy skillet, heat olive oil over moderate flame, and lay in chicken breasts. Sear chicken all over, to attain a nice even golden brown crust. Remove from skillet, and place in roasting pan in preheated oven.
4. Drop sliced onions into the same skillet the chicken was seared in. Toss around, add a drizzle of olive oil if it seems necessary, and sauté for a minute till onions have softened slightly. Add artichoke wedges, 1 tsp of salt, and the andouille sausage coins. Increase heat slightly, toss all well, add Weissburgunder and dry oregano; saute a bit more, then lower heat and cover skillet. Braise over low heat for approx. 4 min, or until the artichoke wedges are just tender.
5. Pull chicken breasts from oven when a quick-read thermometer reads 140 degrees inserted in thickest part of the breast. Let them rest for 5 minutes at least. Then just make a bed of the braised artichoke/andouille mix, place the chicken breasts on top, drizzle any juices from the pan the chicken rested in over the breasts, and sprinkle over chopped scallions. If you need further juices or sauce, just boil down a little chicken stock in the pan the artichokes were braised in, and sauce over the chicken breasts. Serve immediately with the chilled Müller Catoir Weissburgunder.
by Richard Radcliffe