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A few months ago, I uncorked a bottle of 1971 Hochheimer Domdechaney Spätlese from the Staatsweingut (Rheingau) and was astounded by the wine’s freshness and drinkability. Yes, it had lost some of its “baby fat” and youthful sweetness, but was nevertheless a complex and attractively balanced wine at the age of 29! This is by no means an isolated instance when it comes to Riesling. I’ve had numerous encounters both here and in Germany where wines that were 50, 60, 70 years old still had fruit and plenty of depth. In fact, these wines are always, at the very least, interesting. 

I recall a 1945 Steinberger Kabinett that was dry but had an amazing aroma and flavor that was perfect alongside a crab appetizer. Needless to say, the great sweet wines made from Riesling have a longevity that is legendary. Trockenbeerenauslese, and more recently Eiswein, have a tremendous concentration of flavors with incredible extract and at the same time have an uncanny balance, thanks to excellent acidity and low alcohol. The result is a wine that is ethereal without being heady. The same cannot be said of the wines from Sauternes and Barsac, for example, which tend to be very alcoholic. 

Chardonnay, on the other hand, is a wine that enjoys its greatest moments in its youth. Oh sure, they can keep for 20 or even 30 years, but I would not say that the wines improve significantly with extended aging. In my experience the wines tend to deteriorate, dry out, and lose their very attractive, youthful fruitiness. Another factor that is a major difference between Chardonnay and Riesling is the role that oak barrels play in the production of the wine. It seems, particularly in the past decade or so, that cooperage (specifically new French oak) has become a vital part of what goes into a great white Burgundy or California Chardonnay. Riesling also receives exposure to wood, but the effect is minimal because winemakers want the varietal character to sing. It seems as though great Chardonnay depends on great wood to be triumphant. Unfortunately, all too often, when the fruit has dissipated in a Chardonnay, one is left with a lot of toasty oak and not much else. 

Don’t get me wrong, I love a great Chardonnay, but often it can be a highly manipulated varietal that is generally not intended for extended aging. Riesling, however, is so versatile that not only can it age beyond our lifetimes and be enjoyed by future generations, but it can also be savored throughout a meal, beginning with a drier version at the outset, and culminating with late harvest miracles like Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, and Eiswein. It even makes a decent sparkling wine. Nevertheless, I have always been of the opinion that a great German Riesling is best enjoyed all by itself. The low alcohol keeps you on your toes, and the magical flavors and complexities which reflect the terroir of the various growing regions captivate wine lovers the world over. 

- Dade Thieriot